Originally published 9/10/20. Updated 7/18/25

Cheeseburgers, Clams, and Canal Dreams

Some days are meant for to-do lists. Others are meant for Texas Twinkies, Olympic views, and a giant cheeseburger on a roof. This was the latter. A midweek wander up the Hood Canal—just us, the open road, and every delicious, quirky, soul-filling stop between Port Orchard and Lilliwaup.

A Day Trip Up the Canal That Feeds the Soul

We started in Port Orchard, coffee in hand and playlist queued. Taking SR-3 to Belfair, then winding through the 106 to Union and US-101 up to Lilliwaup, this 1.5-hour stretch became a slow dance with joy.

Belfair | 20-minutes, SR-3

🧀 RNJ Smoked Meats – We followed the smoke signals and found heaven. The Texas Twinkies (jalapeños, cream cheese, brisket, bacon—need I say more?) and brisket tacos made us want to write a thank-you note to the cow.

🪴 White Barn Home & Garden – Two plants came home with us (so did a birthday gift). It’s whimsical, earthy, and utterly irresistible.

Allyn (worth the detour!) | 10 minutes past Belfair, SR-3

🐚 Tom Farmer Oyster Co. – Our favorite shellfish spot. The butter clams and small oysters are BBQ gold. We top ours with spicy chili butter and pesto and pretend we’re gourmet chefs. Although Allyn isn’t exactly on the direct route to Lilliwaup our favorite shellfish farmer is in Allyn so it’s worth the slight detour. Tom Farmer Oyster Co. has the most delicious small oysters and butter clams. If you can’t catch him at the Port Orchard Farmers Market a trip to Allyn is totally worth it. We love to BBQ our oysters and top them with fresh pesto and spicy chili butter.

Twanoh State Park | 20 minutes from Belfair, SR-3

🚶‍♀️ Crab watching, dock strolling, oyster gathering, and a 1920s campground vibe that makes you want to toss your phone and play horseshoes. Bring a license if you plan to gather oysters—there were plenty!

Union | 15 minutes from Twanoh State Park, SR-3

🍸 Alderbrook Resort & Spa – Picture cocktails on a lawn with mountain views. It’s luxurious, inviting, and made us dream of staying forever.
🛍️ Union Country Store – Picked up a sweet souvenir and had a good laugh.
🛍️ Union City Market – All things Hood Canal and a great spot for picnic supplies.
🎶 Robinhood Village Resort – A drive-by today, but live music and overnight plans are in our future.

Hoodsport | 25 minutes from Union, US-101

🍦 Olympic Mountain Ice Cream – Steve’s blackberry cheesecake scoop was declared “the best ice cream ever.”
🍸 The Hardware Distillery – Sidewalk sips and a pear vodka we’ll be mixing all summer.
🍤 El Puerto de Angeles – Bacon-wrapped shrimp + margaritas on the dock = happiness.
🥾 Big Creek Campground & Mt. Ellinor – We’ve hiked both. Tough, stunning, worth every breath.

Hoodsport is also the gateway to the Olympic National Forest. I’ve done 2 hikes in the area, Big Creek Campground and Mt. Ellinor. Both were challenging and breathtaking.

Lilliwaup | 25 minutes from Hoodsport, HWY-101

🦪 Hama Hama Oyster Co. – Though pandemic hours clipped our plans, the water-view picnic tables and oysters are calling us back.

🍔 Eagle Creek Saloon – You can’t miss the giant cheeseburger on the roof (we didn’t). We sat outside under said burger with cold beer and fried clams. Next visit? We’re trying the actual cheeseburger. (Sadly this lovely saloon is no longer in business

🏕️ Mike’s Beach Resort – Waterfront cabins that whisper “anniversary trip.” We scoped it out—charming, peaceful, and a definite blog follow-up coming soon.

Resources

Visit Kitsap: https://www.visitkitsap.com/visitor-services

Explore Hood Canal: https://www.explorehoodcanal.com/

Olympic National Park: https://www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm

If you head out on a road trip let us know of any new discoveries. We feel so grateful to live in such an absolutely stunning area.